- Advanced Skill Level Advanced
- Ages 16+ Ages Ages 16+
This course breaks down rock rescue into the individual skills that make up a rescue. Your instructor guides you through the fundamental lessons to build towards a full rescue.
Quick Details
AMGA Guide Certification
The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single-Pitch Instructor (SPI) Course is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical and teaching skills required to instruct rock climbing in a single-pitch setting.
For the purpose of the SPI Program, a single-pitch climb is climbed without intermediate belays and presents no difficulties on approach or retreat. This includes skills such as route finding, scrambling, or navigating.
In addition, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two-day field examination following the course or at any time within three years after successfully completing the course.
The SPI course is intended for recreational climbers who are already proficient in both top rope and lead climbing. It was designed to benefit those who wish to teach outdoor climbing skills to groups such as guide services, camps, schools, universities, therapeutic groups, churches, and climbing gyms. Those who wish to teach climbing in the outdoors tend to have a much higher success rate in obtaining employment as climbing instructors with this training and certification. The AMGA strongly suggests this course as a precursor to those interested in pursuing Rock Instructor or Rock Guide training and certification.
Certified Single-Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner in all settings. While not all students are fully prepared for the exam by the end of the course, every participant will have the training to practice and prepare for an exam in the future.
For more SPI Course information, click Single Pitch Instructor Certification.
For the SPI program Manual click AMGA SPI Manual.
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Plan on spending a large portion of the day standing around outdoors. Plan on dealing with inclement weather. The course will run rain or shine.
Please see the AMGA course manual for the curriculum flow.
Each day will run from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Participants will spend most of the time in small group discussions with breakout sessions to practice the skills taught. Each class will be focused on top rope site management and will demonstrate new skills and tricks from the industry.
You will be responsible for your own food.
Camping options are available near the climbing site, and there may be showers and cell phone coverage at the climbing site and/or campground.
Below is a detailed course itinerary, logistical information, reading material, and an equipment list.
Single Pitch Instructor Certification
Single Pitch Assessment Overview
2020 Course Dates
- 3-5 April – Smith Rock, OR
- 24-26 April Smith Rock, OR
- 29-31 May at Mt Erie, WA
- 12-14 June at Mt Erie, WA
- 16-18 October at Mt Erie, WA
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AMGA SPI Course
- 18+ for adult courses or 16+ with consent from a guardian and Kaf approval
- 12-18 for youth courses
AMGA SPI Exam
- 18+ for adult courses or 16+ with consent from a guardian and Kaf approval
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- Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single-pitch crags.
- Are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.
- Have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.
- Are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
- Have trad lead climbed a minimum of 15 graded rock climbing routes (any grade).
- Are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.
- You are able to comfortably set-up climbs, belays, and rappels without guidance.
- Have a solid foundation of anchoring principles and can demonstrate building solid anchors using natural and artificial protection (wires, hexes, passive and active cams).
AMGA SPI Exam
- You have successfully completed the AMGA Single-Pitch Instructor Course or the AMGA Top Rope Site Manager Course.
- You have traditionally lead climbed a minimum of 40 graded rock routes. A large number of these should have been 5.6 or harder on a variety of rock types.
- You are capable of comfortably leading traditional routes at the 5.6 grade in a variety of styles (crack, face, and slab). You will be asked to demonstrate your leading ability throughout the assessment.
- You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on top rope.
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- AMGA and Rock Certification Process
- Climbing equipment and its role to the instructor
- Review of necessary knots and hitches
- Instructor and student belay techniques
- Management of climbing sites
- Institutional anchors and rock protection
- Instructor teaching techniques and risk management
- Professionalism in climbing instruction
- Practical skills for top-managed sites
- Climbing site organization and group management
- Discussion and practice of lowering techniques
- Assistance skills for top-managed sites
- Practical skills for bottom-managed sites
- Techniques for climbing movement instruction
- AMGA and Rock Certification Process
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- Transportation
- Lunch
- Personal climbing gear
- Transportation
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A detailed equipment list will be sent to you prior to the start of the course.
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Transportation and times will be coordinates by email when the pre-trip announcement is sent to all registrants.
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Consider registering for the Rock Climbing: Advanced, or Ice Climbing: Beginner.
