The northern cousin to Rainier and the third-highest peak in Washington, Mount Baker is a massive stratovolcano located in the majestic North Cascades.
The Tooth Seasonal Routes
Northeast Buttress – Summer –
The Northeast Buttress of Chair Peak is an alpine route that will make you feel like you are in the rugged mountains of the North Cascades. Instead, you’re only an hour away from Seattle, so this becomes a great single-day outing in the mountains. The route starts at the toe of the buttress and ascends a diagonal snow ramp with a small bulge half-way through, and ends at a tree. Continue through moderate mixed terrain or snow to the bottom of the ice crux. Climb through the drip to steep snow above, and continue to the summit.
South Face or Northeast Slab – Summer – Beginner/Intermediate, Grade II, Class 5.4, and Steep Snow; or Intermediate/Advanced, Grade III, WI 3, Steep Snow
The Tooth is included in Nelson and Potterfield’s Selected Climbs in the Cascades Volume 1 and 2. Regardless of the route you choose, you’ll enjoy this alpine route. The South Face affords easy rock climbing with an amazing pay-off, whereas the Northeast Slab jumps up in objective difficulty and becomes a true winter route.
South Face – Winter – Beginner, Grade II, and Class 5.4
The South Face of the Tooth is a great beginner climb for anyone who wants an alpine experience worth every minute of the approach it took you to get there. There’s a reason it’s included in the first volume of Nelson and Potterfield’s Selected Climbs in the Cascades. Three pitches of low fifth class climbing gain the modest summit of the Tooth, as you’re surrounded by the sharp peaks at Snoqualmie Pass.
About Snoqualmie Pass
Snoqualmie Pass is Seattle’s hidden gem for Alpinism. Within an hour from Seattle, you can climb traditional rock and ice routes and be back in Seattle for dinner, all year long.
We offer climbing on three different peaks in the pass. All of them are true alpine objectives that will make you wonder how you are so close to the city. After a few hours of hiking you will find yourself climbing on spectacular Washington classics that offer their own unique challenges.
Looking to get your first taste of alpine climbing? Already have some experience but want to explore what Snoqualmie has to offer? Join us and discover what the pros already know. Snoqualmie Pass is a climbers playground just waiting to be explored!
Contact us to develop a custom itinerary for you and your party.
These are custom climbs; please visit our custom pricing page for the most accurate cost.
All participants will be responsible for getting themselves to the pre-trip meeting. Kaf does not provide transportation for the outing; however, we recognize that transportation can be challenging. Once registered, Kaf will provide information regarding meeting times, locations, and any required parking permits. If interested in carpooling, we will orchestrate a meeting place between participants.
We recommend that anyone flying into Seattle arrive as early as possible on the day before the trip. We also recommend you do not book a return flight until late (red-eye) on the last day of the trip, or the following morning.
- 18+ for adult courses or 16+ with consent from a guardian and Kaf approval
Mountaineering: Beginner course is required prior to the climb of Shuksan.
- Snow and Glacier Camping
- Rope Management and Glacier Rigging
- Technical Rock Scrambling
- Navigation, Map, and Compass Usage
- Gear Packing and Equipment Choices
- Self-Arrest and Ice-Axe Technique, Crampon Usage
- Snow and Glacier Camping
- Professional instruction from full-time mountaineering instructors at a maximum of a 3:1 student-to-instructor ratio
- Passes and permits
- All group climbing gear
- All group camping and kitchen equipment
- Dinners and breakfasts while in the field
- Personal clothing, climbing, and personal camping gear
- Lunches, snacks, water carrying capacity
- Transportation is not included. Kaf will assist in organizing a carpool. See further details below.
You will receive a full packing list following registration, but please feel free to contact us with any gear or equipment specific questions you have. A brief list of what you will need to provide for yourself:
- Personal climbing gear: Multi-day pack, helmet, harness, mountaineering boots, glacier rig, ice tools, and crampons
- Personal camping gear: Sleeping bag and sleeping pad
- Weather-appropriate clothing
Transportation and times will be coordinated by email when the pre-trip announcement is sent to all registrants.
Consider joining us for any of our other Mountaineering Courses