Mick seconding the first pitch of Town Crier, notice the running water in the crack!

We are in it right now.  Transitioning from the heavy winter rains and finally moving into the sporadic sunshine days of early Summer in the Pacific Northwest.  Feeling all the pent up excitement that typifies the energies of the indoor-bound-climber-tired-of-pulling-on-plastic!

While we are blessed with a few sunny days now and then, taunting through our office windows, or graciously falling on a weekend; there never seems to be enough!  I want to take a minute and remind everyone that picture perfect “bluebird” days are not necessary to have a stellar day on outdoor rock!

Climbing, and climbing well, is only partially physical movement.  The other parts rely more upon mental sharpness, efficiency of anchor construction, belay transitions and gear placement.  Fortunately, all of later are not dry-rock dependent.  So, get out there and have a great day playing with your systems, so that when your project is in condition, you are ready to send with style!

This article was inspired by a climb that Mick, our friend Liam Bowler and I did last spring after being rained off a big mountain route.  Rather than head home we decided that the one type of climbing you can for sure do in the rain is Aid climbing.  So, to Index we went to climb Town Crier (IV, 5.8, A2) in the pouring rain!!!  Here are some pictures to inspire, humor and distract you from your work.

Liam leading the 2^nd pitch in what can only be described as a hail storm.

Jugging in Gore-tex.  Only in the Pacific North-wet.

Here are some ways to use our unpredictable spring weather to become a more efficient and well-rounded climber:

Anchor Construction:

• Practice equalizing and creating solid gear anchors, right off the ground.  (Index, Leavenworth and Vantage are great areas to practice this!)
  • Put time limits on yourself.  Ideally, you want to be able to create a completely SERENA anchor in <2min.
  • It is rare to arrive at the belay stance and have a full rack of gear to choose from; so limit the amount of gear that you have to work with! Make yourself be resourceful and creative, it will pay off!
• Re-familiarize yourself with the processes of breaking down and cleaning sport anchors, rappelling and doing it all quickly and consistently.

Jason leading the 4^th pitch A2 section

  Practice Climbing:

• Many Pacific Northwest climbers have large alpine objectives on their tick-list.  Perfect conditions do not always exist in the mountains, and being proficient at climbing wet, mossy, marginal rock is incredibly valuable.  It may be odd to be climbing at Exit 38 in your mountaineering boots in the rain; yet, you will be grateful when you are on West Ridge of Forbidden and know how it feels!
• Spending the last few indoor gym sessions getting your “head” wrapped around leading.  Start getting on the sharp-end and pushing your lead-limits so that you are less shaky on your next red-point at Smith Rocks!

Mick taking us home, to the top good man!!

KAF Adventures excels at creating quality, competent, safe and efficient climbers.  We will teach you not only the fundamental practices, but the concepts behind them as well, empowering you to think critically and develop into the most knowledgeable climber possible.   Come join us for any level of climbing experience and leave knowing you received current and accurate information from professional full-time instructors in a fun and creative environment!

Can’t wait to see you on the rock this summer!

KAF Adventures team

Nice view!

Jason says that his passion for climbing and sharing that with others was “genetic”. I, Don Wheeler and my brother Dan led him into the joys of climbing early in his life. I was a student on Outward Bound course in 1971 and then spent 4 seasons as instructor for Sierra Treks program through my college years of 1975 – 1978. I attempted to climb Denali in 1976 and had to turn back at 19,200 ft. Brother Dan instructed for many years in the 90’s for Outward Bound and led Jason on his first climb of Mt. Hood and also his first multipitch climb at Smith Rocks. Dan’s Alaska climbing consisted of 2 attempts on Denali and Mt. Hunter once, but it took Jason to be the first Wheeler to summit “the Great One” in 2010.  I find it interesting that on both Jason and my Denali climbs we both bivvied at about 18,200 on that great mountain and damn near froze ….. not too many father/sons have done that. This past July Jason and I led a group of friends to the summit of Mt Hood and again were blessed with the enjoyment of being together in the beautiful and sacred place of dazzling sunsets and sunrises, of cold and wind, of high mountain snow and ice, the blessed warmth of the sun and the glory of the full moon.  Recently I found a paper that I had written as a college class assignment and would like to share it with the Kaf Adventures community of folks that enjoy the wild places. Hopefully, it will stimulate either questions for discussion or a greater appreciation of why we choose this life of travel and adventure. A few lines have been for clarity, but it remains largely intact as an expression of my youthful but most realized exuberance, for indeed I have lived out what was written so many years ago. The one item to add is the value of friendship and the joy of sharing the experiences with so many. The memories these many years later are again truly a cherished blessing.

MOUNTAIN CLIMBING……WHY

written in 1977

The question often comes to mind; during a grueling climb, while trying to explain my pursuit to others, while dreaming of another trip – why do I climb?

One of the main reasons is to experience the beauty that exists. In mountainous areas man has had little influence on the environment, there are few roads, buildings or pollution. Everything exists pretty much as God created it and developed it via the natural elements of erosion. I love to gaze at the grandeur and feel the awesomeness of the high rocky peaks, the ice formations and the wind carved snow. I am quite humbled as I feel my insignificance amidst these tremendous places, to be held at the mercy of these elements and to realize the beauty of the landscape. To be exposed and truly feel the wind blow against my body, the cold bit into me, the warmth of the sunshine and the joy of the sunrise after a night too long.

In the spring of 1976, I spent 23 days on Mt. McKinley exposed to the elements of cold, wind and sun and came to know them as both friend and foe, but mostly to learn to respect and appreciate them. Then in a matter of hours I was in a hospital recovering from minor frostbite (along with mates with much worse frostbite). I noticed raindrops on the window and immediately began to formulate in my mind how I would protect myself from the rain. “Where is my raincoat, where is my tent”…only to realize that I was already protected. I was sorry to realize it. While hospitals and buildings are necessary for life, I also longed to be out and experience the wind, rain, cold and sunshine that I had been so deeply immersed in.

I also enjoy the independence from the cities and society. I have traveled in the mountains much by myself and can appreciate that ability to be self-dependent within safe limits. Here also comes a lot of responsibility or accountability. Rarely in our society does anyone directly pay for his own mistakes or find the joy of his own accomplishments. While climbing can be as safe as a climber wants, still there are dangers with an individual misjudgement or mistake causing devastating results. The climber must be continually aware of these dangers and prepared to deal with them for his own sake and also his companions.

Likewise, the attaining of a summit or the joy of accomplishment after a difficult lead is a very personal experience and a direct reward for the effort. I find that alone or with a group, while traveling in the mountains this happens more readily so you quickly learn to always be aware of the activities going on around you. Living is tuned to a finer key.

Life in the mountain can be incredibly peaceful. I have stood many times and listened to the absolute silence and felt the solitude. Unfortunately few in our society will experience this, to retreat for a time way from the unfeeling, hectic pace of the city simply to contemplate and to dream and to get to know the man I am.

The third, not as much a reason but a product of climbing is that I have learned to appreciate all that I have. As one climbs higher and mere existence becomes a struggle, only the most precious things remain. I find a very few things that are ultimately important: basic life functions like eating and sleeping, God’s love for me, the love of my family and dear friends and the life that we share. The superficial concerns of our society become totally insignificant; clothing fashions, hair styles, top 10 songs of the week, etc… And in the end to realize that the gift and joy of life itself and the love that we share one for another is what is most important. I hope that I will continue to realize this and remind others that we must spent more time loving each other and less time worrying about the incidental aspects of our lives.

The last reason for my climbing is for the challenge or testing. I find challenging times not only in climbing but in other pursuits also, but it is an important part of my climbing. Some of my most pleasant memories are of the feeling of accomplishment after a grueling 18 mile hike over difficult terrain or after my 2^nd climb from high camp at 17,200 to Denali Pass to rescue our mates, or a 16 mile cross country ski the first afternoon ever to use skis. There are many accomplishments and most are of little importance except that via them I was able to set a goal and then strive to reach it and in the process to go beyond what I thought I could ever have done. If mankind were never challenged to do better and greater things we would not be as developed as we are today. It is up to each of us to develop ourselves as far as possible; to go far beyond the mental limits we have placed upon ourselves. The physical capabilities of our bodies are nearly limitless as seen by continually bested athletic records. Bur first we must have the mental and emotional determination to make these accomplishments possible. I firmly believe that you can do almost anything if you want it badly enough.

Almost anything in life can be a challenge, however each of us should discover our own goals. I chose to explore the mountainous wilderness and have grown through my experiences and will continue to seek those times of peace and beauty. I do not come to compete with the mountain or anyone in my party. A mountain has not a personality that is for against me. I come to compete with myself and to grow as the mountain environment  provides the physical aspects of the experience; the terrain and the weather.

My journal entry from high camp on Denali reminds me that all is not fun “tonight has been a real bummer…. slow climb, bitter cold, wind and fatigue. I was really debating if all of this was worth the pain. Finally fell asleep with still cold toes”. But in the end the toil is worth the reward of knowing in my heart that I have done the best possible. Thomas Paine said “Yet we have this consolation with us, that the harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph. What we attain to cheap, we esteem too lightly, ’tis dearness only that gives life its value.

To me life without challenge is mere existence and existence is barely life itself. Simply said, I love to live in the mountains.

Don Wheeler

Hope that you enjoyed, 

KAF Adventures Team

Natives of the Pacific Northwest have a reputation of being hearty, adventurous and lovers of the outdoors.  There is also a penchant for coffee shops, yoga, art galleries, bicycling…  Just watch an episode of the quirky stereotype-comedy of Portlandia and you will understand.  So, leave it to people of the Northwest to take their yoga mats, strap on their hiking boots and go for a 5-day journey into the wilderness.

The synergy of the experience is undeniable, your mountain pose will be more grounded standing in an open meadow, under the flanks of the impressive Mount Rainier.  Inspiration comes easily, sitting on the shores of Dungeness Spit.  Harmony is natural when surrounded by 500-year old trees.   This is the next step, or maybe a great leap forward, in yoga for the modern age.  Wilderness based experiences, using the amazing diversity that the Pacific Northwest affords, will expand your horizons in every season.

Hiking peacefully along a trail, I was instantly removed from the buzz of modern life for a moment, feeling the grasses caress.  I was awake, colors became vivid and alive, and for a moment there was a quiet respite from the hustle and bustle of the city.  Spending the afternoon practicing yoga and meditating along a snowmelt creek, reflecting in a pristine lake and walking amongst the forest was a day I will never forget.

People come to the Puget Sound and the Willamette Valley to be surrounded by nature, yet we often forget how easy it is to be a part this beauty.  Yoga studios have become as common as coffee shops, a cultural norm.  But we are an innovative people, and in less than 30 minutes you can be blending these two worlds together.  So, tie your yoga mat onto your back, and find how out how close you really are to wilderness.

Want some guidance as you take your practice outdoors??  KAF Adventures provides trips throughout the year in the Puget Sound area, day hikes to 5-day backpacking  trips: www.kafadventures.com or 206-713-2149.

The KAF Adventures Team

Essentials of Rock Climbing Infographic by JustRopes.com

Start out 2012 with a BANG – of your ice tools!

Join us for a 5 day, unforgettable experience, to one of the top ice climbing destinations in the country – New Hampshire.

Whether you are a beginner or advanced climber, exploring New England Ice is an amazing experience that will really help improve your ice climbing technique.

You will learn new skills, climb hard during the day and enjoy a comfortable nights stay.

Read more about our New England Ice trips or contact us.

As the season changed and the weather turned, I reflect once again from the inspiration of the desert southwest!

One thing I have found over the summer that is certain is change. People come in and out of our lives, the weather blows, our perceptions change. Living in this world is dynamic, and the things we think are important are affected by so many factors. Struggle and challenge are important parts of our lives, letting us choose what we hold onto. Each of us face tough decisions yet the true essence of life revolves around how we choose to handle this change.

One thing I find helps see clarity around my normal daily patterns is exposing myself to the elements. The experiences we create for ourselves outdoors are powerful. The vision for KAF is to help facilitate your growth.

This summer had some amazing stories! So many worked so hard to summit Mt. Rainier and Mt. Baker, learn to climb, try a new experience by doing yoga outdoors, or pushing themselves beyond imaginable. UNBELIEVABLE GROWTH!

Thank you all for your support and sense of adventure. We hope you will continue to share with us…..

We have switched our email system, and you will need to regulate it yourself.

If you want to stay in touch with this community, please register here:

http://www.kafadventures.com/community/join-mail-list/

The Winter season is here!

Ice climbing Days – learn, practice, play – 12/27, 1/4, 1/21, 2/12, 2/26

Ouray Ice Climbing – such a unique experience – 1/6 – 1/9

New England Ice climbing trip – the most amount of ice – 2/14 – 2/18

Snow Shoe Tours – spend a day outside with us – 1/15, 2/19, 3/3

Intro to Backcountry Skiing – this is the gateway – 1/28, 2/26, 3/4

Intro to Avalanches Course – don’t go without it – 2/23 (eve) & 2/25

Multi-day Ski Tours – go farther – 3/10 – 3/12

Introduction to Snow camping classroom – your fundamental snow class – 1/12, 1/19 & 1/26

Introduction to snow camping Outing – enjoy the winter wonderland – 2/3 – 2/5

Snow Yoga weekend! – a perfect Olympic retreat – 3/2 – 3/4

Winter brings Indoor ROCK!

Start building a solid climbing foundation for your summer climbing plans. Take the time for your skill development and take a class at ALL STAR Fitness, West Seattle our current gym space! Come climbing with us, class costs includes use of the gym for the evening! Soak it up in the hot tub after class!

Intro to Rock – come one, come all!  – 1/10, 2/21, 4/3, 5/15

Advanced Technique/Open Climbing sessions  - climb with a professional source for 4 hours per month. Work on technique and any rock skills – 1/11 & 1/25,    2/22 & 3/7,     4/4 & 4/18,     5/16 & 5/30

Rope Handling Clinic – 3 class sessions imperative for your foundation of climbing.(start date listed).  1/12, 2/23, 4/5, 5/17

Intro to Lead Indoors –   This is the perfect gateway course leading towards outdoor climbing.   1/17, 2/28, 4/10, 5/22

Mountaineering

Our 2012 Calendar is out! Join the mailing list or call for early registration.

Introduction to Mountaineering – (outings to Baker or Mt. Adams) – the foundational course. Starts – 5/16

Hood Alpine Ice Climbing Advanced Prep Course – the perfect blend of steep snow and ice! - 5/5 – 5/6

Hood Luetholdt Couloir Advanced prep course – enjoy a climb of the only European 2 day climb in the Cascades - 5/26 – 5/27

Mt. Rainier via Emmons–  this is what you have been training for ONLY 4 spots register NOW! – 8/7 – 8/10

Crevasse Rescue Course – imperative for safety while on a glacier – 6/8 – 6/11

Upcoming TRIPS!

USA!

Personal Guiding and Rock Climbing classes– join Mick in the Desert this Spring! Remember, we pick these areas because they are unmatched!

Choose from: April – May, 2012

• Indian Creek – splitter cracks in the desert
• Red Rocks – moderate traditional climbs and sport routes
• Joshua Tree – the most unusual landscape
• Smith Rock – in our backyard! PS–Jason is in Portland, so we can now offer trips to Smith ANYTIME!

 International Trips!

 Africa

Climb and Safari of Kilimanjaro – That’s right, the final logistics of our unique travel trip to Tanzania is here. Join us for a trip of a lifetime. 2 spots have already been sold for the safari and Zanzibar section!

June 19th – July 5th, 2012
December 26, 2012 – Jan. 10th, 2013

Taiwan

Surf  and rock climb in Taiwan– the newest experience. Join us for a unique trip in paradise

September 11 – 17^th, 2012 OR September 25 – Oct. 1^st, 2012

India

Boulder in India! – Honestly, it does not get better than this. Enjoy a vacation where we take care of the details.

Jan. 15^th – 30^th, 2012

Jan. 15^th – 30^th, 2013

Thailand – is nearly sold out!

Climb on the sunny beaches – Steep overhung climbing and yummy food. Enjoy deep water soloing! Only 2 spots left!

Feb. 3rd – 12^th, 2012

Educational Tidbit #3 – How light is too Light? – Learn what Jason Wheeler considers the best backcountry ski touring set up.

http://www.kafadventures.com/2011/12/how-light-is-too-light/

Yoga in Nature

As you may know, KAF Adventures is one of the only companies in the US who truly finds yoga and nature a perfect combination.

Our Yoga Hikes were a huge success this summer!!  Join us this winter for the:

• Snow Yoga Weekend! – Enjoy a weekend of yoga, snow shoeing, and back country skiing. Olympic Park Institute! $450 – March 2^nd – 4^th, 2012

• Also join us for the first annual Northwest Yoga Conference!!!! – February 18^th & 19th

http://www.nwyogaconference.com/Pages/default.aspx

Yoga & Backpacking

Spring Canyon Lands

This fall, join us for an unmatched journey into Canyon lands near Moab, Utah. Regain a calm sense of self and a communion with nature by traveling through the heart of canyon country…

Take a look at what you’ll take part in during this unique and powerful yoga and backpacking experience in spectacular southern Utah:

• Engage in a daily yoga and meditation practice guided by (Laura-Yon Brooks) designed to awaken all of your senses and nourish your body through moderate movement; we’ve geared this for all levels of fitness and experience
• Connect with the open landscape, challenge your fitness, step out of the
• habit daily routine, reflect, relax, and find new space in your heart
• Learn backpacking skills, flora and fauna of the desert and wilderness ethics

Take a different type of vacation and return home with a greater appreciation for the beauty of the desert and the beauty of the Self.

When: April 22 – 27, 2012

Cost: $1100 per participant

*Airfare is not included and ranges from $300 – $700

Don’t forget about Mt. Rainier Yoga and Backpacking retreat this August!

 Community!

I am always looking to hear from you. The KAF community wants to hear from you. I want all of us to stay connected. SHARE!

• We are doing a beacons and brews!   - Practice using your beacon in the park and then let’s have a beer! Date to be announced……
• We are doing ski flick showings! -  get your stoke on! – 2/6, 4/2
• We are doing a belay escape and brews! – practice a belay escape and then let’s have a beer – 2/22

Gear

KAF CAPS still available!

Help get the word out, buy one today for $10. I will ship it to you anywhere for $5. 206-713-2149.

We want to hear from you! I want to hear your stories, see how things are going and what you have been up to!

• Check out our calendar section on the new website!
• Join KAF Adventures Page on Facebook!
• Join the Seattle Climbing Group on Meet up! – Meet other climbers and stay updated with classes in the Seattle area.
• Join a social network. FitClimb – A social space to share your climbing experiences, and learn about training.

Wishing you a wonderful Holiday from the KAF Adventures Team!

Sincerely,

Mick Pearson

The season of skiing is upon us, and go we must into the frozen and snowy slopes of the alpine.  There are many ways to explore the wilderness in the winter, yet I cannot imagine a single thing better than being on my skis.  Whether approaching an ice climbing route, taking the dog for a walk, or doing a multi-day hut-to-hut traverse, skis are the only way to go!

There has been a cultural revolution recently…  Light is right!  Gear manufacturers are pushing the edge with materials science and minimalist construction.  I am tickled to see that there are 5lb Alpine Touring boots, 6lb skis, and 2lb bindings.  We are so fortunate to not have to be as hardcore as the original pioneers of our times who suffered through amazing terrain in soaking leather boots and wooden skis while carrying their canvas external frame backpacks.

This article was inspired by my recent, and on-going, search for new AT boots.  Wanting to meld the worlds of mountaineering and AT skiing, I am searching for a boot that is light enough to take on most alpine adventures, yet burly enough to keep the skiing fun on the way down.  For those that are not skiers, I need a boot that can comfortably climb vertical ice, walk on a dirt trail, have on my feet for days on end, and then have them be a stiff enough that you do not roll your ankles every time you try to turn your skis.

A new bevy of boots have hit the market, and they are small, slim and sexy.  The best of these featherweights are the Dynafit Mountain Performance, and the Garmont Masterlite.  On paper they are perfect.  Light, easy to walk in, beautiful.  Yet upon closer inspection, and after trying them on, I realized the limitations.  These boots feel like they would not last 60 days of real use, nor were they near stiff enough to hold up to a heavy skier (I am 180 lbs, without a 30lb pack).  These boots are perfect for going uphill, and great for technical mountaineering, yet the thrill of the descent would be lost in the lack of control these boots could provide.

I have ultimately come to realize that the lightest model is not always the rightest.  While the Scarpa Maestrales are almost a pound heavier per boot, the durability, comfort and ability to control skis while going 20mph down a rocky couloir has me sold.  These boots will allow me to do some resort skiing and not worry that I am putting too many miles on fragile construction.   Now, instead of having to have on hand resort ski boots, AT boots, and plastic mountaineering boots, I can just go with one boot.  It is not the specialized perfection of each of these boots, but a nice blend of all the best qualities possible in a single 7lb package.

Ski boots were the example for trying to get this point across:  Why do you want the lightest (and often more expensive) thing on the market?  Sure they are really cool, and everyone will take notice; be it skis, clothing, boots, bindings, harnesses… However, it is worth taking the time to stop and think about the real functionality of that uber-light piece, and being realistic about the limitations you are signing up for with minimalist construction.

Sometimes the middle road is the good road.  We live in an ever polarized society of extremes and specialization.  You do not have to mimic the world around you in your gear choices.  Find a good piece of gear, one that you will actually use, that inspires confidence and fits a wide range of conditions and activities.  Your pocketbook, gear closet and climbing partners will all be happier to see that you have found one thing that really works well, and you have stopped showing off the newest and lightest every time they see you!

Cheers to the adventure of life, and the tools we use upon this Earth!

Jason

Authors Note:  Here is the closest thing that I have found to a perfect ski set-up:

Skis: 185cm Armada JJ’s                               Bindings: Dynafit TLT Vertical FT 12

Boots: Scarpa Maestrales                 Skins: Black Diamond Ascension

Poles: Anything with a Black Diamond Flip-Lock

As summer comes to a close, we are starting to prep for the 2012 season! Woah, what a great year we’ve had! We have some cool ideas, trips, & events coming for the next year. We are excited and we hope you are too. Our fall newsletter will come out soon with some details.

In the meantime, we’re in the process of switching over our email list to a new platform. As the KAF community grows, it’s been increasingly hard to keep track of everyone in our old system.  Unfortunately we were not able to transfer everyone into the new system. If you’ve received our newsletters in the past and still want to receive them, please use the form below to sign up!

Don’t forget, you can also connect with us through:

• > RSS feed of our blog
• > Our calendar for cool upcoming courses & events
• > KAF Adventures page on Facebook
• > Seattle Climbing Group on Meetup
• > KAF Adventures page on YouTube

Click here to view the embedded video.