7,000 miles of flying can get you pretty far.  This trip took me to the southern hemisphere, the beloved region of the world known as Patagonia.  Lifting off from Seattle on a cold and foggy morning only to land at the 41^st parallel, south of the equator, in the midst of summer and 100^o weather.

Mountains carry the same magic the world over, yet the varying cultures which surround them are special and unique, providing an experience so much more than a summit or vista.  The trails feel different, the language buzzing in your ears and mind, different foods and the ever present reality that your life is on your back for a moment in time.

I came down here to work a course for a former employer, to have a moment back in a land which was instrumental in my development as a mountaineer, facilitator and human being.  Having spent almost 2 years of my life here already, it felt much more like a homecoming than a wild and new adventure.  Evenings full of conversation, dinners and an agenda full of trips with friends has made this adventure more than just a mountain escape.

Mountains tell such a great story of our lives.  From the geologic birth of a volcanic peak, or the plate-tectonic shift thrusting a granitic range into the sky, mountains have become the landmarks which we orient ourselves.

I first came to Patagonia when I was 21 years old, and now having lived much life, much has changed, both inward and externally.  To have a moment to come back to this place of my history, to touch the soil and see the views that dominated the formative years of my early 20’s.

Mountains not only give us something to strive for, an objective to reach for, a motivation for inspiration.  They also hold the dramatic power of being a memorial to past achievements and moments of life.  Remember where you were in your life when you stood on the top of your first peak?  I do.

We live in a special place in the Pacific Northwest, dominated by huge mountains easily seen on the clearest days of the year.  Baker, Adams, Rainier, St. Helens, Hood.  All representations of the forces that shaped the land which we so bountifully live, and memoirs of the aspirations of the many whom have stood on their slopes.

Moving over stone

“I just want to move over a lot of stone” said Mick as we were talking about getting out and climbing together. It seemed reasonable enough, there’s plenty of stone to move over in Washington State, I’m sure we could find a suitable objective. We began talking, a climb was mentioned called infinite bliss on Mt. Garfield. It’s a large route, 2,400 ft. in length. It’s approximately four times the height of the space needle and only 40 miles from downtown Seattle! It’s hard to imagine a face a large as Yosemite’s half dome in our own backyard. Though, it is as large as half dome the climbing style is much different. Half dome being mainly a crack climb, while Mt. Garfield is a face climb. This climb can be a hot topic in the Washington climbing community because it is a bolted climb in the mountains. There are pros and cons to bolting mountains and not bolting them. Today, we’re going to focus on the stories from the route and not stories of the route.

Before I knew it Mick and I, as well as two other KAF Adventures guides we’re at the Bellevue park and ride loading up. We made the obligatory stop at the North Bend Starbucks, then we were on the infamous middle fork road. Music blasting, we had transformed. Once four respectable adults, now, screaming banshee teenagers, singing and yelling to the radio all the way to the trailhead. After catching our breath, we racked, packed and made our way to the base.

The route starts with ten pitches of really fun slab climbing. Mick and I simul-climbed through these pitches and they just blew by! We were able to climb as quickly as our legs would take us. Before we knew it, we had made it to the pitch ten ledge. Mick and I took a break as we waited for the other team to reach us. We basked in the morning sun and started at all the stone that laid ahead

The pitches cranked by, one through ten became a blur and the continuous movement kept my mind churning. Mick was kind enough to mentor me through the systems of moving fast. He never said too much, but kindly mentioned ways to be more efficient. His approach was very supportive and always motivating. It was very enlightening to see how the systems work for moving fast on big routes.

The summit came and went, we took in the views while enjoying the feeling of reaching the bittersweet half way point of the day. Once we were all grouped on the summit, Mick proclaimed “sure was a lot of stone!”. A large laugh and sigh we’re simultaneously released as we prepared for 16 rappels. Mick being no stranger to taking multiple people on big adventures led us off. The mountain zoomed by as pitch by pitch we reversed our route down the face.

As Eric, a fellow KAF guide and I set off on the next set of rappels, we reached the knots at the end of our rope. Our dream of stretching to the next anchor was just that, a dream. We were going to be about eight feet short of our next station. This left us dangling in space as we planned our next move. With a little strategery (a combination of strategy and tom foolery) we fashioned our selves a new rappel station. We told Mick to use another rappel station to get down to us. This way he would avoid having to implement any strategery. Eric and stuck our thumbs out and waited for our ride down the rest of the route.

We all rejoined and finished the route by putting on our mosquito masks. We did battle with apocalyptic swarms of mosquitos the rest of the way down. After reaching our gear we made it back to the car in no time. Touching the hood made our car to car time twelve hours flat, we were stoked! It’s not the fastest time but it was a great time with a great group of folks, not soon to be forgotten!

Big Thanks to Mick Pearson, Andy Stephen and Eric Crosby for a great day out in the mountains!

See you in the hills

Steffan Gregory

One of our participants, Shenan Sanchez, took the time to write the below reflection, and we would love to share it with the KAF community!  Enjoy.

“Between 08-11 September, I was a member of the Summit For Someone, Veterans Climb team on Mount Shuksan, Washington – A great program that serves an even greater cause.  As an infantry Marine for almost 20 years, I have spent many nights outdoors, extreme and otherwise; but I can honestly say that I had never undertaken the challenge of climbing a mountain.  The reasons why I did are simple:  I have a true love for the outdoors; and in a world that can be complex and dark at times, I purposefully seek the beautiful moments and opportunities that exist within it.

This climb did not disappoint. It was one of the most arduous events I have ever undertaken, yet it was truly one of the most rewarding.  When the team first came together I felt as though I’d made 4 new friends; by the time we came down from the mountain I felt as though I had 4 new brothers…to my fellow veterans (Aaron and Dan) and the amazing leaders and professionals at KAF Adventures (Jason and Trevor), thank you; I would climb with you on any other trip or any other occasion without hesitation.  Jason and Trevor, your professionalism, leadership, mentorship and instruction was outstanding; you literally welcomed us with open arms, looked to our welfare and treated us like family…this left a tremendous impression and I am forever grateful for that experience.

What I learned on the climb cannot be summarized into few words; a week removed from the experience I continue to realize new lessons.  Still, I have tried to capture of few of those wonderful nuggets below:

What I learned about “life” while on the mountain…

-  I learned that the mountain, like life, is there; unmoving, perpetual, challenging, seemingly daunting, waiting to be climbed, beautiful.  It’s not coming to you, rather all the effort must be yours.

-  The way up had peaks, valleys, obstacles, objective hazards; sometimes it was easy, most of the time it was tough.  Yet, despite where our immediate path took us – up, down or sideways – as we kept our eyes on the prize our overall relative movement was ever upward and higher.

- Whether climbing a mountain or living your life, one must travel light.  If you’re overloaded with baggage you’re not going to make it.  Figure out what you really need and take only those most important things. That will keep you light, allow you to move and keep you alive.

- The climb was full of hazards seen and unseen; objective, mental, fatigue-induced, weather related etc…this in turn required planning, training, concentration, good decisions, rest, food, water, keeping alevel head, teamwork…

- Teamwork/Friendship. You live or die by the rope team.  When we were roped up, we worked together; protected, helped, depended on and motivated each other.  Danger was minimized, fear was reduced, we moved efficiently; stronger.  As is written in the bible, “the three braided cord is not easily broken…”

- Sometimes the path or the pitch on the objective route may not be the most direct. It may require more planning, re-assessment, effort, backtracking or circumventing. Remain motivated, flexible and focused.

- More important than just getting to the top was enjoying the moments along the way; the camaraderie, the surroundings, the beauty…

These are just a few lessons – there are so many more.  I am sure that I will continue to learn from the experience long after I have been off the mountain.  What I am also sure of is that the experience surpassed all my expectations and that I will return…”

- Shenan Sanchez

Luke Humphrey Climbing

Remote mountaineering in the North Cascades National Park is demanding and rewarding. The North Face of Mt. Shuksan is a mountaineering gem, tucked away in the northern part of WA. State. I was lucky enough to mentor and support Luke, Alin, and Catalin through the rigors of this iconic peak. Team work, communication, and the ability to work understress and fatigue is a big part of the story. Follow the well done story  and beautiful pictures here: http://lukeallenhumphrey.tumblr.com/post/28894724363/the-north-face-of-mt-shuksan

Cheers!

Steffan Gregory

Lovely participants Morrie, Zale, & Joe!

Backpacking in the rain for 3 days can be fun it turns out. Walking through deep old growth forest in the heart of Alpine Lakes Wilderness can be enjoyable even in the rain, downpour and hail. Three participants and I marveled at the vibrancy of this Northwest Rain forest and managed to stay (mostly) dry and definitely smiling during our introduction to backpacking trip last weekend.

It’s hard not to focus on the enormous amounts of ceaseless precipitation when you are surrounded by it and literally living in it; so we found a little cave to take shelter in, cook a delicious vegetable quinoa stir-fry on our camp stove and wrote poetry to the rain.

This is what we came up with: Some Haiku’s for you!

The sky is
falling

Forest
exhaling liquid

Spilling off
my hat

Buck of
moisture

Bringing
light and smiles despite

Thunder,
lightning, hail

Water is
neither

Death nor
life but together:

It simply is
ALL

Hydrogen
Unites

With Oxygen
seducing

Bringing
rain, rain, rain

There’s Rain
snow and hail

Bag, hat,
sock boots and my clothes

I’m saturated

Mick seconding the first pitch of Town Crier, notice the running water in the crack!

We are in it right now.  Transitioning from the heavy winter rains and finally moving into the sporadic sunshine days of early Summer in the Pacific Northwest.  Feeling all the pent up excitement that typifies the energies of the indoor-bound-climber-tired-of-pulling-on-plastic!

While we are blessed with a few sunny days now and then, taunting through our office windows, or graciously falling on a weekend; there never seems to be enough!  I want to take a minute and remind everyone that picture perfect “bluebird” days are not necessary to have a stellar day on outdoor rock!

Climbing, and climbing well, is only partially physical movement.  The other parts rely more upon mental sharpness, efficiency of anchor construction, belay transitions and gear placement.  Fortunately, all of later are not dry-rock dependent.  So, get out there and have a great day playing with your systems, so that when your project is in condition, you are ready to send with style!

This article was inspired by a climb that Mick, our friend Liam Bowler and I did last spring after being rained off a big mountain route.  Rather than head home we decided that the one type of climbing you can for sure do in the rain is Aid climbing.  So, to Index we went to climb Town Crier (IV, 5.8, A2) in the pouring rain!!!  Here are some pictures to inspire, humor and distract you from your work.

Liam leading the 2^nd pitch in what can only be described as a hail storm.

Jugging in Gore-tex.  Only in the Pacific North-wet.

Here are some ways to use our unpredictable spring weather to become a more efficient and well-rounded climber:

Anchor Construction:

• Practice equalizing and creating solid gear anchors, right off the ground.  (Index, Leavenworth and Vantage are great areas to practice this!)
  • Put time limits on yourself.  Ideally, you want to be able to create a completely SERENA anchor in <2min.
  • It is rare to arrive at the belay stance and have a full rack of gear to choose from; so limit the amount of gear that you have to work with! Make yourself be resourceful and creative, it will pay off!
• Re-familiarize yourself with the processes of breaking down and cleaning sport anchors, rappelling and doing it all quickly and consistently.

Jason leading the 4^th pitch A2 section

  Practice Climbing:

• Many Pacific Northwest climbers have large alpine objectives on their tick-list.  Perfect conditions do not always exist in the mountains, and being proficient at climbing wet, mossy, marginal rock is incredibly valuable.  It may be odd to be climbing at Exit 38 in your mountaineering boots in the rain; yet, you will be grateful when you are on West Ridge of Forbidden and know how it feels!
• Spending the last few indoor gym sessions getting your “head” wrapped around leading.  Start getting on the sharp-end and pushing your lead-limits so that you are less shaky on your next red-point at Smith Rocks!

Mick taking us home, to the top good man!!

KAF Adventures excels at creating quality, competent, safe and efficient climbers.  We will teach you not only the fundamental practices, but the concepts behind them as well, empowering you to think critically and develop into the most knowledgeable climber possible.   Come join us for any level of climbing experience and leave knowing you received current and accurate information from professional full-time instructors in a fun and creative environment!

Can’t wait to see you on the rock this summer!

KAF Adventures team

Nice view!

Jason says that his passion for climbing and sharing that with others was “genetic”. I, Don Wheeler and my brother Dan led him into the joys of climbing early in his life. I was a student on Outward Bound course in 1971 and then spent 4 seasons as instructor for Sierra Treks program through my college years of 1975 – 1978. I attempted to climb Denali in 1976 and had to turn back at 19,200 ft. Brother Dan instructed for many years in the 90’s for Outward Bound and led Jason on his first climb of Mt. Hood and also his first multipitch climb at Smith Rocks. Dan’s Alaska climbing consisted of 2 attempts on Denali and Mt. Hunter once, but it took Jason to be the first Wheeler to summit “the Great One” in 2010.  I find it interesting that on both Jason and my Denali climbs we both bivvied at about 18,200 on that great mountain and damn near froze ….. not too many father/sons have done that. This past July Jason and I led a group of friends to the summit of Mt Hood and again were blessed with the enjoyment of being together in the beautiful and sacred place of dazzling sunsets and sunrises, of cold and wind, of high mountain snow and ice, the blessed warmth of the sun and the glory of the full moon.  Recently I found a paper that I had written as a college class assignment and would like to share it with the Kaf Adventures community of folks that enjoy the wild places. Hopefully, it will stimulate either questions for discussion or a greater appreciation of why we choose this life of travel and adventure. A few lines have been for clarity, but it remains largely intact as an expression of my youthful but most realized exuberance, for indeed I have lived out what was written so many years ago. The one item to add is the value of friendship and the joy of sharing the experiences with so many. The memories these many years later are again truly a cherished blessing.

MOUNTAIN CLIMBING……WHY

written in 1977

The question often comes to mind; during a grueling climb, while trying to explain my pursuit to others, while dreaming of another trip – why do I climb?

One of the main reasons is to experience the beauty that exists. In mountainous areas man has had little influence on the environment, there are few roads, buildings or pollution. Everything exists pretty much as God created it and developed it via the natural elements of erosion. I love to gaze at the grandeur and feel the awesomeness of the high rocky peaks, the ice formations and the wind carved snow. I am quite humbled as I feel my insignificance amidst these tremendous places, to be held at the mercy of these elements and to realize the beauty of the landscape. To be exposed and truly feel the wind blow against my body, the cold bit into me, the warmth of the sunshine and the joy of the sunrise after a night too long.

In the spring of 1976, I spent 23 days on Mt. McKinley exposed to the elements of cold, wind and sun and came to know them as both friend and foe, but mostly to learn to respect and appreciate them. Then in a matter of hours I was in a hospital recovering from minor frostbite (along with mates with much worse frostbite). I noticed raindrops on the window and immediately began to formulate in my mind how I would protect myself from the rain. “Where is my raincoat, where is my tent”…only to realize that I was already protected. I was sorry to realize it. While hospitals and buildings are necessary for life, I also longed to be out and experience the wind, rain, cold and sunshine that I had been so deeply immersed in.

I also enjoy the independence from the cities and society. I have traveled in the mountains much by myself and can appreciate that ability to be self-dependent within safe limits. Here also comes a lot of responsibility or accountability. Rarely in our society does anyone directly pay for his own mistakes or find the joy of his own accomplishments. While climbing can be as safe as a climber wants, still there are dangers with an individual misjudgement or mistake causing devastating results. The climber must be continually aware of these dangers and prepared to deal with them for his own sake and also his companions.

Likewise, the attaining of a summit or the joy of accomplishment after a difficult lead is a very personal experience and a direct reward for the effort. I find that alone or with a group, while traveling in the mountains this happens more readily so you quickly learn to always be aware of the activities going on around you. Living is tuned to a finer key.

Life in the mountain can be incredibly peaceful. I have stood many times and listened to the absolute silence and felt the solitude. Unfortunately few in our society will experience this, to retreat for a time way from the unfeeling, hectic pace of the city simply to contemplate and to dream and to get to know the man I am.

The third, not as much a reason but a product of climbing is that I have learned to appreciate all that I have. As one climbs higher and mere existence becomes a struggle, only the most precious things remain. I find a very few things that are ultimately important: basic life functions like eating and sleeping, God’s love for me, the love of my family and dear friends and the life that we share. The superficial concerns of our society become totally insignificant; clothing fashions, hair styles, top 10 songs of the week, etc… And in the end to realize that the gift and joy of life itself and the love that we share one for another is what is most important. I hope that I will continue to realize this and remind others that we must spent more time loving each other and less time worrying about the incidental aspects of our lives.

The last reason for my climbing is for the challenge or testing. I find challenging times not only in climbing but in other pursuits also, but it is an important part of my climbing. Some of my most pleasant memories are of the feeling of accomplishment after a grueling 18 mile hike over difficult terrain or after my 2^nd climb from high camp at 17,200 to Denali Pass to rescue our mates, or a 16 mile cross country ski the first afternoon ever to use skis. There are many accomplishments and most are of little importance except that via them I was able to set a goal and then strive to reach it and in the process to go beyond what I thought I could ever have done. If mankind were never challenged to do better and greater things we would not be as developed as we are today. It is up to each of us to develop ourselves as far as possible; to go far beyond the mental limits we have placed upon ourselves. The physical capabilities of our bodies are nearly limitless as seen by continually bested athletic records. Bur first we must have the mental and emotional determination to make these accomplishments possible. I firmly believe that you can do almost anything if you want it badly enough.

Almost anything in life can be a challenge, however each of us should discover our own goals. I chose to explore the mountainous wilderness and have grown through my experiences and will continue to seek those times of peace and beauty. I do not come to compete with the mountain or anyone in my party. A mountain has not a personality that is for against me. I come to compete with myself and to grow as the mountain environment  provides the physical aspects of the experience; the terrain and the weather.

My journal entry from high camp on Denali reminds me that all is not fun “tonight has been a real bummer…. slow climb, bitter cold, wind and fatigue. I was really debating if all of this was worth the pain. Finally fell asleep with still cold toes”. But in the end the toil is worth the reward of knowing in my heart that I have done the best possible. Thomas Paine said “Yet we have this consolation with us, that the harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph. What we attain to cheap, we esteem too lightly, ’tis dearness only that gives life its value.

To me life without challenge is mere existence and existence is barely life itself. Simply said, I love to live in the mountains.

Don Wheeler

Hope that you enjoyed, 

KAF Adventures Team

Natives of the Pacific Northwest have a reputation of being hearty, adventurous and lovers of the outdoors.  There is also a penchant for coffee shops, yoga, art galleries, bicycling…  Just watch an episode of the quirky stereotype-comedy of Portlandia and you will understand.  So, leave it to people of the Northwest to take their yoga mats, strap on their hiking boots and go for a 5-day journey into the wilderness.

The synergy of the experience is undeniable, your mountain pose will be more grounded standing in an open meadow, under the flanks of the impressive Mount Rainier.  Inspiration comes easily, sitting on the shores of Dungeness Spit.  Harmony is natural when surrounded by 500-year old trees.   This is the next step, or maybe a great leap forward, in yoga for the modern age.  Wilderness based experiences, using the amazing diversity that the Pacific Northwest affords, will expand your horizons in every season.

Hiking peacefully along a trail, I was instantly removed from the buzz of modern life for a moment, feeling the grasses caress.  I was awake, colors became vivid and alive, and for a moment there was a quiet respite from the hustle and bustle of the city.  Spending the afternoon practicing yoga and meditating along a snowmelt creek, reflecting in a pristine lake and walking amongst the forest was a day I will never forget.

People come to the Puget Sound and the Willamette Valley to be surrounded by nature, yet we often forget how easy it is to be a part this beauty.  Yoga studios have become as common as coffee shops, a cultural norm.  But we are an innovative people, and in less than 30 minutes you can be blending these two worlds together.  So, tie your yoga mat onto your back, and find how out how close you really are to wilderness.

Want some guidance as you take your practice outdoors??  KAF Adventures provides trips throughout the year in the Puget Sound area, day hikes to 5-day backpacking  trips: www.kafadventures.com or 206-713-2149.

The KAF Adventures Team