Mt. Hood Alpine Ice + Cooper Spur

The North Face of Mt. Hood holds fantastic climbing possibilities…and only a few people have fully realized this potential.

Mt. Hood’s remote North Face offers some of the steepest alpine terrain of the Cascade Volcanoes, in addition to providing the Historic Tilly Jane hut. A 3-day weekend on the mountain blends the comfort of a woodstove and cabin with the remote and frozen world of the high alpine ice climbing dreamland of Elliot Glacier and Cooper Spur water-ice.

This unique and fascinating three-day adventure is the perfect getaway for climbers and mountaineers.

The journey starts with a mellow 4 mile hike into the Tilly Jane hut, where you can basecamp for the next two nights. Hiking into the hut and getting all your gear together and organized fills the first day. During the second day, climbers venture up onto the shoulder of the Elliot Glacier and marvel at the massive North face of Mt. Hood. The rest of the day is spent climbing both water and glacial ice flows.

This is the perfect place to practice efficient climbing techniques and safety, while enjoying the incredible scenery and views.

The third and final day, is spent climbing up and over the Cooper Spur route, and descending the South Side route. The Cooper Spur will combine all of the skills you have polished up during the previous days. It will test your newly acquired techniques on sustained 60⁰ snow and ice, for over 2,000′ of vertical gain.

This is a committing route, and it is highly suggested that you carry over and down the South Side route of the mountain due to rockfall danger. The route receives early morning sun and becomes quite dangerous to descend. This “carry-over” option requires you to plan ahead for a car-drop, and to pack lightly to remain unrestricted in your climbing by a large and heavy pack.

This awesome route will truly test your climbing ability and alpine travel skills!!!!

Curious about climbs on Mt Baker too? Take a look at Mt. Baker via North Ridge.